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Catwalks: what is it for?

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Catwalks: what is it for?

Catwalks: what is it for?


Oxford Circus, the temple of londonnien shopping. Primark teaches specialist small price, just put on display a black and white top with the inscription "Parental Advisory". Its design looks familiar, and for good reason: it is almost consistent copy of the centerpiece of the spring-summer 2014 fashion show by Alexander Wang. The catch? While fans of the designer will have to wait several months before obtaining the original, the more impatient can already offer it for a handful of books.

This is now the fate of the most desirable collections. When high mass podiums arrives in the shops a season later, the public has seen so much photographed and copied -for parodiées- not say he is tired. At a time when the media coverage of a parade is immediate and global, where online pre-order is the slogan of consumers, which, finally, the biggest turnover occurs in discrete and précollections lines cruises, fashion show might seem old-fashioned or obsolete.

Never mind! The houses offer an escalation in the theater. After badged giant Chanel exhibition, we have witnessed this season live performance of Paloma Faith singer accompanied by a jazz band in BurberryProrsum, or a desire for sweet performance in Sophia Webster, not to mention the heavenly scenery Marc Jacobs.

"On a purely commercial level, the parade has no interest. It only serves to build a brand image and strengthen a sense of belonging among the guests," says Sophie Conti, director of the Paris office of the Fashion GPS company, specializing in IT strategies in luxury, which counts among its customers Dior, Gucci, Saint Laurent.

The show now has to fulfill two key functions: imagine the one hand, an exceptional moment for the happy few and, secondly, to orchestrate a rich and diverse digital mediation in order to attract customers of tomorrow. There are some days, Fendi out the big guns and throwing flying drones in the room of his show to broadcast live panoramic image of each silhouette. Burberry also adept live streaming even offers the opportunity to pre-order parts from their computer. Same concept to Moda Operandi: The site allows you to book rooms live of many shows, to be delivered several weeks before arriving in store. A dream for hard and fast fashionistas.

Regarding the moment of the show, guests are more than ever cherished it. Fashion GPS is accustomed to the most frivolous demands: for the Copenhagen Fashion Week, favorite Starbucks drink every spectator was recorded in soy -Milk database, vanilla syrup, whipped cream, and we pass and He was provided on arrival. What could be better?

Another client, who will remain anonymous, has also asked to save the name and age of children journalists, so that each press officer can greet guests more personal way and ask them how was the return of toddlers. "There is a competition in the spectacular that is not about to stop, it's a totally anti-crisis attitude" summarizes Sophie Conti.

However, if the show is still the highlight of the show, it is not the only event organized by the brand. "Fashion has a rhythm almost bulimic, and it must constantly create entertainment", Alexandra Jubé analysis, trend hunter for Nelly Rodi office. Thus, houses seeking media attention throughout the year, through collaborations of diverse -Marc Jacobs and Coca-Cola, Isabel Marant and H & M, etc., capsule collections and latest must, of events during the contemporary art fairs -always in order to test and capture new markets.

At the last edition of Art Basel Miami Beach, Pringle took the opportunity to organize an exclusive evening, under the hospitality of Tilda Swinton, Johan Lindeberg, the brand BLK DNM, has been used for launch her ​​perfume, and Gareth Pugh, to receive at a VIP dinner.

"Paradoxically, the parade accompanies slower trends and quieter than ever. No waves, no risks, laptop parts," observes Alexandra Jube. So it becomes a momentary distraction that accompanies a more uniform dress landscape in the past, tamed by a hectic and commercial production. "Fashion goes full speed and has been democratized. So, luxury brands must imagine an entertaining and warm cocoon, and it is precisely this feature that the show fills, "says Nicolas Ouchenir, calligrapher hand-written more than 15,000 invitations fashion week -or more than 40% increase over its inception ten years ago. "The parade is the human contact, without which the luxury dies. The real difference is that," he adds. This will reassure technophobes.

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