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RESTAURANT. We tested Climates and frog croquettes in Paris 7th

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RESTAURANT.  We tested Climates and frog croquettes in Paris 7th

Frog legs in kibble, the signature dish of the restaurant Climates and its leader Phan Chi Tam.

Christine Tamalet

Climates, 41 rue de Lille, Paris (7th) Open every day (lunch and dinner).

For a long time, he made a pig's weather in this former refectory of the ladies of PTT.

Not really conclusive owners of changes

After the glorious era of the telegraph, where the entire left bank was up mercury in the volumes "cathédralesques" of the 1900 Building, temperatures have dropped sharply: in twenty years and four or five changes hands, not a restaurateur n ' was able to reverse the barometer between temptations lounge and event rental.

In this context of low pressure, Climates resemble the operation last chance to remake a place in the sun.

Bosses, decorator, head: a salutary renewal

In the great big beautiful means. First, all fire and flame patterns: Carole Colin and Denis Jamet, a duo who managed to revive, against the current, the buckling tableside Chez Monsieur, a chic bistro 1940s near the Madeleine .

Next, a solar decorator, in the person of Bambi Sloan, engineering handyman in style arts and crafts, rattan conservatory atmosphere here, a lounge and velvet leopard way Sarah Bernhardt and there, fruity friezes on vaulted ceilings, wallpapers to the English ...

Finally, a leader with a strong charisma, Phan Chi Tam. This young French of Vietnamese origin could settle for a flattering pub food and well off; his adventures at the Ritz, Mandarin Oriental and the Japanese restaurant Kiku incite to flank some formidable knife cuts in the classics.

A Franco-Japanese cuisine

Mackerel? Cut into small logs to melting flesh, topped with an incisive frozen sour cherry and dotted with onions pickles bells, grout rocket and shiso shoots. Precise, beautiful and devilishly balanced.

The beef tab? Of French origin (which changes us from imperialist Black Angus), wisely with white asparagus and onion confit bells, but whipped a cooking juices boosted with a drop of mirin, sake and soy sauce.

The floating island? Spherical Tropicalised to death with grated coconut, lime zest, candied pineapple and dabbling in a fish-ginger-pepper sauce ultratonique.

Back breaking

Fusion cuisine, you say? Yes, and accepted as such, trading the hysteria jetlaguées 1990s against some Franco-Japanese purity in symbiosis with the pest patio soothing silence.

The anticyclone is perhaps his comeback on 41, rue de Lille.

The signature dish

Frog legs in croquettes, filo pastry and sweet potato. Convincing new financial year between franchouille and mop.

The user manual

(Lunch) at 36 and 45 euros, but the card did climb at night to 70-80 euros per person. In fine weather, aim a place in the terrace. Reservations recommended.

The wine list

Burgundy exclusively at the risk of offending some drinkers. Champagne lovers will even settle for Crémant de Bourgogne! Dizzying choice of meursaults of Corton-Charlemagne at very competitive prices. Wonderful and rare burgundy old vines Régis Rossignol-Changarnier, 29 euros.


This famous terrace of 36 seats (spaced), quiet, shaded charms with its false lawn that looks real.


The evening prices a little inflated.

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